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Hail Odin! by Christenklatscher666

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No. 54884
46 kB, 528 × 1019
Dear Ernst,

is there anything you can do, be in practically or theoretically, that you want other Ernsts to learn?

Be a teacher and write a guide.

Ideally you keep up some quality and write more than 2 or 3 sentences. Pictures would be great and staying around to answer possible questions would be even greater.

To keep this thread alive, i will post some how to's later, and i know that someone from a far away place will post one very soon, too.
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No. 54885
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Growing weed is easy and the more money you have to invest, the easier and more fruitful it gets.
But since decent setup for multiple plants easily costs a 4 figure sum, we will focus on a really small grow with equiptment for less than 300€.
Depending on how much of the needed stuff you already own, it might be way cheapter than that.

A little warning: Little cost also means some DIY work. No need to be a trained carpenter or elictrician, but you shouldn't expect plug and play here.

Basic things we need:

  1. A box to grow in
  2. Light
  3. Ventilation (includig air filtration)
  4. Soil and fertilizer
  5. Seeds
  6. Needed tools
  7. Useful but not needed tools
  8. The box:
There are some important things about the box that effect the price of the whole setup, first and foremost the size.
Since we plan on a small and cheap grow we should aim for something with a surface of around 30x30cm, it should also be at least 80cm high. 100cm would be better.

Idealy you already have something that can be used as a growbox, like an old closet or a broken fridge.
For this theoretical grow, i looked up a small cabinet on Amazon for around 50€. The Measurments are L 68 x W 39 x H 90 cm and it's called "KETER Stilo low cabinet", see picture 1.
The pictures on Amazon also show that you can close it with a padlock, which might come in handy.

Since the surface is way above the 30x30 we aimed for, we use the extra lenght for a 20cm department for our growing needs and tools. For that we need something to separate it, any piece of ~90x39 board should do.
Just don't take paper or styrofoam please, we don't need a fire.
Also, there's a whatever it's called in english in there. I marked it on pic 4. Take it out. And tell me what it's called, i need to know now.

So, now we have the base of our growbox which will end up at around 38x38x90. Perfect.
To ensure that only a minimum of energy is wasted, we need the insides of the box as reflective as possible.
Many people think about aluminium foil but it's worth to invest a bit more. Aluminium foil has very poor reflective properties and it will make your box heat up a lot.
You can go with a rescue blanket but a mylar film would be way better. I recommend going with the mylar film, you should get enough for the grow box for around 10€ to 15€, maybe even cheaper.

We will need to make a few holes in the box, so be ready for that, but first:

2. The light:

A good LED light in the 50W to 100W range, made for growing purposes can easily cost 200€ and above. We don't want to spend that kind of money so regular household LEDS have to do.
Other kinds of lights might be more effective for less money than LEDs are, but since efficience and temperature play a role as well, we go with LEDs.

There's a lot to say about different kinds of LEDs, color spectrums and so on. Since we're cheap we ignore everything we could learn and go with the basics:

We want to reach ~50W. There's the possibility that we have to add another light later when the plant hits bloom, so leave a bit of place.
Best go for a setup of multiple E27 LEDs that hit different numbers on the kelvin scale. Something like 2x 3500k and 1x 5000k. If you compare different LEDs with the same wattage, check the lumen value. It's not really that simple but for this setup we're going to say "the more lumen the better".
Example for an acceptable LED: Awenia LED Bulb E27 20 W.
Now that you found the LEDs of your dreams you need fitting sockets/cables to connect them to. Also somthing to mount them together so they don't wobble around. A piece of sturdy plastic where you can cut fitting holes in should do the job but i recommend a lamp holder like in pic 2 (with the lamp holder you also only need 1 cable, so it's worth it).

3. Ventilation:

There are various things you need to control, like humidity, temperature and smell. That's what you need a ventilation for.
We start with the most important thing: Airfiltration. If you don't get rid of the stink you can just as well open the window and scream "Hey, i'm growing weed in here" 24/7.

I snatched this tutorial from a topic related internet forum and midified it a bit so it fits our grow box better. I won't quarantet that this works since it is not tested but i assume it should.
What is needed:

4x 120mm PC fan (two of them will be destroyed, so take a used or cheap one)
1x Universal power supply
1x 120mm fan guard
1x aluminium insect screen (optionally, you can buy 120mm dust screens for 2 of the fans, it would be easier but more costly.)
4mm Activated carbon pellets
A 9,2cm to 12cm fan adapter
Electrical connectors (or whatever else you do to connect cables)

Now take two of the fans and take everything out, only the chasis should remain.
Take a 120 mm fan guard or the dust screen fan and connect it to one of the fans.
See pic 3 for how it's supposed to look like when added to one of the 2 working fans. You can also see all the other steps and the finished product in there.
Stack the two fan chassis on top of the working fan, fill it with the carbon pellets and put a dust screen on top of it. Now add the other working fan on top. Screw it together.
Make sure that the air goes from one site to the other and not from both sites out or in.
Now add some foam or something similar as isolation to the intake site to make sure that only air from inside the box is pulled out.

You can now connect the fans to the power supply and we go back to the box to put all our stuff together.

Keep in mind that the carbon pellets have to be replaced occasionally.
We also need a tiny ventilator to keep the air moving, just take any cheap clip on desk ventilator from Amazon. Shouldn't be more than 10€ or 15€

4. Adding it all together:

Now we need three holes in our box, i marked everything in pic number 4. As you can tell, i am very talented at using paint.

One at the center top, this one is for our light. It should be just big enough, so you can get the socket trough.
One at the center back. This one should be just big enough to squish in our 120 mm fan with the isolating foam. Make sure that it doesn't fall off. If needed, use some duct tape or something like that.
One at the bottom left. This doesn't need to be too big 90x90mm should be enough as a passive air intake. Important is that we have negative pressure inside the box so that no air leaves unless it goes through the filter.

Now, if all the parts are in place and working, you're done. The box is there. Have fun.
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No. 54886
>>54885
5. Soil and fertilizer:

There are many ways to do such a small grow, but we're cheap, so we avoid all those fancy hydroponics grow builds and go with regular soil.
We need two kinds of soil: cultivation soil or herb soil for the first weeks. There's a lot of fertilizer already in most soils and the young plants don't like that at all.
Then we need some regular soil. There are special options but regular potting soil does the job, just don't take the cheapest one you can find. Two good brands you here from around here are Compo Sana and Biobizz, go for that if you can or look for alternatives if you can't buy that in your region.

When you buy the second soil, look if it says something like "pre-fertilized for 12 weeks" or something similar. You don't need to fertilize as much in this case and maybe even avoid buying fertilizer for the vegetative stage completely.
You do need some for the bloom, here you have to look at your soil again. Is it organic soil? Then you can buy organic fertilizer, which i recommend.

For organic soil i recommend biobizz.
Otherwise, you can go with the "Terra Flores" stuff from Canna.
Read the instructions on how much of it to use and then use maybe 25% or 50% at best of it in both cases, less is always more.

And don't use the fertilizer for bloom before bloom actually happens.

Next topic:

5. Seeds:

I guess you need those things too.
Maybe you're lucky, and you live in an area where buying and owning them is legal, in that case just go into a store and buy some.

If you don't want to go to a store, use the internet.
I won't name any possible sources, but I might accidentally drop a link in here where you can find a huge list of internet shops with information and ratings next to information about different strains and.. Well, where to buy them.

seedfinder.eu oops…

Take whatever sounds interesting. There are just a few things I would recommend:
Don't take pure sativa plants. They need forever and they get fucking huge. Go for indicas or a sativa/indica mix.
Also, don't buy autoflowering plants. They have zero use when growing indoors, you only lose the possibility to control the moment your plants start to flower and you quite possible get worse weed.
Also, take feminized seeds. Would be bad to notice 4 or 5 weeks in that your one plant is a boy.

The link I accidentally dropped shows different strains and how long they need + how tall they can get and where to buy them.
Of course, you shouldn't order things that are illegal in your country, so there's no need to explain how it is important to check from where and how the store is shipping. If there's a stealth option, if you can pay with cash or BTC or anything...
And I don't need to tell you to avoid stores from outside the EU (in case you are in the EU) or the Netherlands because that is where a lot of stuff gets fished out.
But of course you only order if its legal so no need to mention.

If you have your seeds, take some tissue, make it wet and put your seed in there so that it's completely surrounded by wet tissue.
I recommend putting something like a plastic bag over it, so it doesn't dry out within an hour.
Now, make sure it stays wet. This will probably take between 24 hours and 3 days. You can take a short look once a day and as soon as the seed opened and grew a little root you can drop it around 1cm to 2cm deep into the cultivation soil. Also, take a small pot. Something around 0,2l or 0,3l.
Keep the soil moist.
As soon as the head starts to look out you can put it into your box and turn the lights on, the air filter can stay out for the first 2 or 3 weeks, only then the plant starts to smell.
For the time your filter isn't working, make sure that enough fresh air gets into the box, you can use the cheap desk ventilator for that.
The light should be on for around 18 hours a day, get an automatic timer for your plug, they coast around 10€.
Don't open the cabinet within the dark time, that's stress that the plants don't like.

After those two or three weeks you can also put your plant into a bigger pot. I would directly go to the final pot.
Since it's a small grow I would go with a 1l or maybe 1,5l pot, more is not needed.

You can send your plant into bloom by switching the light to 12 hours on, 12 hours off.
Keep in mind that the plant will keep growing by on average 200% to 300% (in some cases even up to 600%) after you did that, you can keep the plant low with a net, but you still need to calculate with the space.

I also recommend reading some basics about plant cropping and training. Not only does it help to keep the plant compact, it can also increase its yield.

6. Needed tools

A time switch for your lights.
Cheap, small ventilator to keep the air moving and simulate wind.

7. Useful but not needed tools

Humidity meter that also measures temperature. It can be bought for 10€ and is recommended. Keep the humidity at around 50% (a bit more in the early stages) and the temperature between 20 °C and 30 °C. Around 25 °C would be neat.
pH meter or at least pH test strips. The water you give to your plant should have a pH of somewhere between 6 and 7, same goes for the soil. You can control the pH by mixing tap water with bottled water.

Some stuff you should know:

If the room you grow in starts to smell there are 2 possible reasons.

  1. The filter is too weak. Increase its size or buy a commercial one from a store and pair it with a duct fan. There are very cheap duct fans, but they are loud as hell. In the 150€ and above range you get some really quite ones with speed controls and stuff.
  2. If it worked before you most like have to change the carbon pellets.
If your plants start to get brown or hanging leaves, dark spots, white spots or anything else just google for it and you probably find tons of information. It will most likely be a deficiency or abundance of something, that can easily be fixed.
If you're unlucky it's mold or pests. That can ruin your plants so watch out.

Don't water too much, like with fertilizer, less is more.

Did I forget anything? Probably a lot. If you have questions just ask.
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No. 54893
>>54884
>2 or 3 sentences

>>54885
>49 lines omitted
>>54886
>46 lines omitted
>did I forget something?
Absolutely EC tier
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No. 54895 Kontra
>>54893
*More than 2-3 sentences
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No. 55110
I'll bump this out of appreciation. This is a good, high effort thread.

I'd like to share some how-tos, but I'm not sure what exactly. Usually, I don't have a set algorithm for doing things, I just figure it out as I go, so it never occurred to me to make a tutorial. Maybe I should.

I could write a tutorial on how to use rutracker as an english speaker, I guess.
Or how to pirate Windows lol.
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No. 55115
227 kB, 500 × 375
>>55110
>I could write a tutorial on how to use rutracker as an english speaker

This or how to cook your favorite regional dish or whatever.
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No. 55188
513 kB, 2048 × 1536
1,2 MB, 2048 × 1536
998 kB, 2048 × 1536
1,2 MB, 2048 × 1536
How to easily remove text from an image

To demostrate my method, I'm going to use a picture posted in another thread. Basically, I cut out portions of the image, and rearrange them. This is an alternative to airbrushing over text, which can destroy the original texture and detail.

Step 1: Duplicate the image layer. On one layer, erase the green interior of the sign, leaving only the two screws. If I just erased the text, it becomes nearly impossible to match the texture and color. So the whole thing has to go, then we rebuild it.

Step 2: On the other layer, erase everything except the sign. I'll use this layer to create a new blank sign. To start, stretch the layer vertically. I can only use the areas without text, so those need to be bigger.

Step 3: Place that stretched sign-only layer beneath the full image layer. Move it around to find the position which covers as much space as possible with sections that have no text. Duplicate the layer, and erase the text on one of them. This is the main sign layer.

Step 4: Place the other duplcate layer-which still has its text- below the first, and move it to fill the lower gap. Try to line up those subtle vertical stripes. Duplicate the layer again. On one of them, erase any sections which protude to the upper gap. They'll just get in the way. This is the second sign layer.

Step 5: Place the remaining sign-layer beneath the other two, and shift it until it fills the final gap. Again, try to get those vertical stripes to line up.

Step 6: Set an eraser to ~10% opacity, and return to our top sign layer- right below the main image. Lightly brush the edges where the text was erased. This helps those edges blend with the two lower layers.
Finally, on the main image layer, lightly brush the edges of the two screws with the eraser. Again, to help them blend with the layers below.

And there you have it. The text has been removed, and the sign has retained a semblance of its original texture. Not exact, but close enough for our purposes. You only need to be exact when forging documents or making counterfeit money, and that's beyond the scope of this post :D.
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No. 55244
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I will now post recipes i posted on KC /int/ a long time ago.
They are not made by a professional 5 star restaurant cook but by me, some guy who likes to cook and improvise a lot while making food.
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No. 55245
173 kB, 2496 × 597
>>55244
And one that was made by some other Bernd
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No. 55269
>>55244
I actually remember that guy but
>salad
Fucking christ. As a kid I always wondered what kind of person even made or thought to invent let alone consumed such foul concoctions. It was close to two decades later I discovered they're German inventions. Potato salad and cole slaw are actually good though. Not sure cold macaroni salad is German or not but also fine depending how it's made. Lots of other stuff just looks vile.

Is this the guy that tried to make burgers and pizza? Because I remember this one German who actually seemed like a pretty competent cook. I'm even hungrier than before now.
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No. 55274
146 kB, 333 × 333
>>55269
Kartoffelsalat, Wurstsalat, Nudelsalat, Fleischsalat, Bandsalat.
We have all the Salat.
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No. 55277
>>55274
Sometimes I wonder of I amableto open a cafe of authentic German cuisine.
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No. 55279 Kontra
>>55277
Just shit on a plate, authentic German food xD
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No. 55280 Kontra
88 kB, 800 × 800
>>55279
And then we can deep fry it and call it American, how about that?
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No. 55281
>>55274
>flesh salad
Also kartoffel sounds like such a dirty word. It makes me imagine old rotting meat marinating in feces or something.
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No. 55305
>>55281
you're really into feces. what an odd taste.